Cooking in 1542 The Quattrocento revolution?

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Was cooking an art in the Loire châteaux? Cookery books, writings on good manners and utensils tell us more

Art, architecture, science… During the French Renaissance, all these fields, influenced by the Quattrocento (first Italian Renaissance), underwent a revolution. But what about food?

Spices, sweet and sour and game

As you turn the pages of this invaluable work, the first observation becomes clear: the use of spices from India and Africa, such as cloves, cinnamon and pepper, has been perpetuated over the centuries, “not to disguise pheasant meat, as we sometimes read, but for taste”, explains Loïc Bienassis, and as a social marker.
Given their high price, spices were also a way for aristocrats to mark their rank and distinguish themselves, even if new sea routes made them more affordable. Another persistent element is the sweet-savory mix, on which many recipes are based.

At the table, culinary traditions are tenacious. Aristocrats continued to revel in roasted meat, game and poultry, with a pronounced taste for pie, crust and pate. However, around 1530, a novelty was introduced, imported from America: turkey. It was the only edible product from the New World to become established during the Renaissance, as the rise of the tomato and the potato only really took off in the 18th century.
Among the working classes and peasants, the diet was less meaty, and consisted mainly of bread, cakes and cereal porridges, but also fruits and vegetables such as cabbage, leeks and carrots.

In the culinary preparations of the Renaissance, there is no break with the Middle Ages. While several culinary manuscripts exist for the Middle Ages, this is the only source we have.

Loïc Bienassis, historian at the Institut européen d'histoire et des cultures de l'alimentation, talking about the Livre fort excellent de cuysine, published in 1542.

Sweet and sour flavors

Despite this continuity with the Middle Ages, changes are underway. Starting with the massive use of sugar, which is becoming an everyday consumer product after having been used by the aristocracy or for therapeutic purposes.

“It was never used so much, even with acidic ingredients such as verjuice, vinegar or wine, to the point where sweet and sour flavors reached their peak during the Renaissance,” observes Loïc Bienassis. At the same time, spices and fruit were being candied, and jam was making its appearance.”

In recipes, butter became increasingly important, as we learn from the Livre Fort excellent de cuysine. It was used to prepare lean dishes (fish, vegetables and eggs). As for fruit and vegetables, hitherto neglected by the elite because they were eaten by peasants and therefore unworthy of their rank, they became the rage.
Artichokes became fashionable, as did eggplants, asparagus, cauliflowers, cucumbers and melons, which were grown in royal gardens.
But none of this is due to Catherine de Médicis, as we often read,” concludes Loïc Bienassis. She is credited with revolutionizing cuisine, importing pâte à chou, liqueurs, ice cream, the fork, etc. These are just legends. These are just legends that originated in the 18th century.
What is not a legend, however, and continues to this day, is the French taste for good food.

Dinner offered to Catherine de Médicis by the city of Paris 1547

Brouet de canelle – Squab bisque soup
Fried oysters – Frogs – Hochepot
Rooster crests and kidneys with artichoke bottoms
Salmis of herons – chopped capons
Roasted cranes and turkeys – Peacocks flanked by swans
Kidneys with fennel – Rille à la garbure au gratin with hazelnut purée
Small chickens in vinegar – Roast pigs and kidneys
Myrobolants confits – Beef moelle with sugar candy
Beef jelly with Alicante wine
Roasted eagles – Pears with hypocras
Woodcock and partridge with truffles
Forget – Scalded – Chicks in orange sauce

Excerpt from Chambord-des-Songes published in 2019, Charles Dantzig

Tableware and table manners

The Renaissance saw the advent of the modern plate. The slicer or tailloir, where pre-cut food was placed in the Middle Ages, gave way to this new instrument, made of metal or ceramic, which is in fact a slicer with raised edges. The two- or three-pronged fork also seems to be spreading as an individual cutlery item.

However, it was still considered by the clergy to be an instrument of the devil, as it allowed people to indulge in the sin of gluttony, so its use did not become widespread until the 18th century. Eating habits were also evolving. In his work De l’éducation des enfants, Erasmus of Rotterdam set out rules that would be widely echoed in court society.

For example: “It is discourteous to lick one’s greasy fingers or to clean them with one’s jacket. It’s better to use the tablecloth or napkin. Or: “Don’t be the first to dip your hands in the dish that has just been served: you’ll be taken for a gourmet…”.

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